(first published in the CBO's first Annual Report for 1954)
At the southern entrance to Belfast Lough lie the Copeland Islands, a group of three, known as the main Copeland Island, Lighthouse Island and Mew.
For some years now the two latter have been of great interest to ornithologists in Ireland who were toying with the idea of setting up an Observatory. Humanly speaking the location seemed ideal, but after a good many weekends spent there, the rota of watchers, organised by Mr Lancelot Turtle and other members of the USPB, reluctantly came to the conclusion that the migrants that came in such numbers to The Maidens appeared to by-pass Copeland almost entirely.
Nevertheless there were other reasons for giving these islands further consideration. Away back before the last war Arnold Benington had been seeing a great many Manx Shearwaters about Dundrum Bay in July and August, and dead birds were occasionally washed in on the beaches there. From 1938 onwards the same observer began to notice large flocks off St John's point, Co Down. From here, especially in rough weather a steady NE movement was observed, not once, but on many days in late July, when birds passed steadily at the rate of thousands in the day. The same year Arnold Benington mentioned to Mr Deane that he thought it would not be long before we had Shearwaters nesting in Down. Next year Mr Deane and Denis Rankin had the honour of finding an egg on Lighthouse Island, thereby proving breeding for the first time in Co Down.
The following year 1941 Kenneth Williamson, with Denis and Neal Rankin and one other bird watcher, made a weekend survey of Lighthouse and Mew Islands. Considering the short time at their disposal this was very comprehensive, and those interested in bird populations should study this report and compare it carefully with our findings of last year in the Observatory Log Book. The details are too full to give here, but attention may be drawn to the increase in Herring and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, and the unfortunate corresponding decrease in the Tern populations of Mew Island.
In 1947 Arnold Benington with three friends made another short survey. Though not nearly so comprehensive as that of Kenneth Williamson it does bring out other points of interest, again chiefly from the angle of fluctuating populations. At least one very encouraging fact results from these two surveys, and that is relating to the rare and beautiful Roseate Tern. During the 14 years of which we have fairly accurate knowledge the Roseate Tern seems to be fairly well holding its own. It is true that quite a number of eggs and later chicks, are taken by the large gulls, but we are not sure that the crowds of visitors which swarm over Mew Island during the general holiday season, are not a worse menace than the gulls.
Be that as it may for the next two or three years several birdwatchers paid visits and enjoyed the great number of nesting birds on Lighthouse Island. In 1953 Arnold Benington with members of the Belfast WEA class in Field Biology spent many useful days and some exciting nights catching Shearwaters amongst rabbit holes and bracken of Lighthouse Island. By this time we were beginning to realize that the colony of Shearwaters was quite large, and the various people that visited the place were learning a lot of interesting facts about this fascinating oceanic bird. One night while the party were lying on their bracken bed on the floor of one of the half ruined lighthouse buildings, somebody suggested that we should buy the island and use it as a sort of field centre for bird study.
So the idea was sown. Before long the seed germinated; and although of course we did not buy the island; owning to the kindness of Captain Ker, we were soon in possession of a lease on the most favourable terms.
Encouraged by the good wishes of interested ornithologists, arrangements for setting up of an observatory for the study of bird life, and possible migration, were soon under way.
During the winter of 1953 – 54 much preliminary work was done. A Committee was appointed and a Charter drawn up. Then detailed plans were made, portable traps constructed and equipment collected.
At last the great day arrived, when we were to go and take over the island. February 27th 1954 dawned cold and clear and by 10.30 am quite a number of members had collected on the pier at Donaghadee. Half an hour later our loaded lorry arrived and we proceeded to unpack it and stow all kinds of gear into Andy White's motorboat.
In a short time Andy cast off and we were away. Across a cold green sea the Mull of Galloway gleamed white under a mantle of snow, and to some it seemed too early in the season for this kind of undertaking. However the weather was kind to us, and in about half an hour the first working party landed safely on the island. We unloaded the boats, and before work began we collected at the South landing and committed ourselves into the care and keeping of our Heavenly Father who giveth us richly all things to enjoy.
Now began the task of getting over a ton of supplies from the rocks at sea level where they had been unloaded, up to our headquarters on the top of the island. There was sand, cement, timber, iron sheeting and miscellaneous odds and ends, and they were hauled up the steep slope by man-power, non other being available. Now the party divided into groups, each undertaking one of the following tasks:
Clearing the common room of granite blocks, each weighing a couple of hundred weights; clearing and burning the bracken bedding from the dormitory; rebuilding the fireplace in the common room; digging duck ponds; and locating positions for permanent hides, to be erected on the next visit. A survey was also made of various parts of the ruins, with a view to finding the most suitable sites for a store, woman's dormitory, and a laboratory.
As the Irish Lights Commission vacated these buildings nearly 80 years ago, repairs and rebuilding were vitally necessary to provide the necessary accommodation.
On subsequent visits this heavy work was cheerfully undertaken; a floor was erected to form a dormitory and bunks and tables were assembled; three feet of debris was removed from the proposed laboratory floor; windows were fitted and glazed; doors hung and cupboards built; roof patched and cemented then coated with bitumen; masonry cut from old built up window in Common Room; main courtyard cleared of Elder bushes; flag path laid, and various minor jobs. As well as these we had at last decided that there were enough migrants visiting the island to justify the erection of a small Heligoland trap, so the north east gully was prepared for this … to be erected next year.
Most of this work required daylight, though at times we worked far into the night as well, by the aid of Tilley lamps, so our observations of diurnal bird movement were hampered considerably; but darkness found all members alert, with tiredness forgotten at the first magic call of the Shearwater, and the laboratory work resulting from the nights catch usually continued until dawn.
After last years hard work we feel that the pioneer manual labour is nearing completion, though much remains to be done.
The Observatory now provides a Common Room, which is also used at present as a laboratory; a women's as well as a men's dormitory; 14 comfortable wooden bunks (thanks to the generosity of the YHA); straw palliases; cooking utensils; crockery, cooking facilities, unlimited fuel in the shape of driftwood, and light, for the use of which a nominal charge is made. The island also provides very good opportunities for either individual or corporate research on the breeding biology of some 30 species.
To a great number of well wishers we owe our thanks for their encouragement and practical help in the setting up of the first Ulster Bird Observatory.